Santana, Madeira – A Tale of Peaks, Thatch and Playful Traditions

Santana, tucked along the rugged north coast of Madeira Island, is the sort of place that turns a simple road trip into an epic detour.  Everyone knows Madeira is lush, but Santana is where the island goes full green.  Mountains plunge into valleys, waterfalls tumble down cliffs, and ribbons of ancient laurel forest wrap the hills in mist.  In between you’ll spot bright A‑frame houses that seem to have stepped straight out of a fairy tale.  Unlike the main tourist hub in Funchal, Santana remains a patchwork of small farms and old hamlets, yet it also hosts a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and the highest peaks on the island.  With around 6,500 residents spread across six parishes, the municipality covers roughly 96 square kilometres, making it both spacious and intimate.  This article traces its story from early settlement through agricultural boom and decline to today’s blend of eco‑tourism, festivals and everyday life.

The origins: a chapel and migrants from Minho

The name “Santana” comes from a chapel dedicated to Santa Ana, the mother of Mary.  Early settlers built the chapel on a plateau overlooking the north coast, and a village grew around it.  The parish itself was formalised in 1552 when the Portuguese Crown created the Captaincy of Santana and moved the administrative centre from nearby São Jorge. Local lore says many of the first settlers came from Portugal’s Minho region, especially the city of Braga, bringing with them building traditions and farming techniques suited to the rainy north. They cleared land, planted cereals, grapes and later sweet potatoes, and raised cattle.  The fertile soil of the Ribeira de São Jorge and Ribeira do Faial supported vineyards, and the mountains provided timber and pasture.

For centuries Santana’s isolation shaped its culture.  Steep cliffs cut it off from the south coast; until recent times the easiest route to Funchal was by boat or a long mule track through the mountains.  This self‑reliance gave rise to distinctive architecture and colourful traditions.  When Madeira entered the sugar‑cane boom during the 15th and 16th centuries, farmers here also cultivated the tall green cane.  In 1493, just decades after settlement, sugar from the captaincy was already recorded being sold on the island.  As sugar profits waned and wine production shifted to the south, Santana’s farmers returned to subsistence agriculture—potatoes, corn, chestnuts and livestock.  This mixed economy kept the area modest but resilient.

Iconic thatched houses: palheiros of Santana

One of the delights of visiting Santana is spotting the triangular thatched houses known as palheiros or “casinhas de Santana”.  These A‑frame dwellings have become the municipality’s emblem and even appear on postcards and tourism logos.  They developed from necessity: timber and thatching straw were abundant while stone was scarce in these remote valleys.  According to the local tourism authority, the steep pitch of the thatched roof—almost 60 degrees—helps rainwater run off and extends down to the ground, forming two side walls.  Inside, a ground floor served as living quarters and kitchen while an attic stored crops and tools.  Colours matter too: whitewashed walls with blue or red trim brightened the misty landscape.  Wooden frames and thick straw made the houses warm in winter and cool in summer.  An Idealista architecture article notes that a typical palheiro measures about 7 metres long and 4.6 metres wide, with the ridge rising to 4.4 metres.  Every four or five years, families rethatch the roof by layering new bundles of heather and rye straw, a skill passed down over generations.

Today only a handful of authentic palheiros remain in everyday use.  You’ll find them scattered in fields or near gardens, sometimes with cows peeking out.  In the town centre, an open‑air museum called the Núcleo de Casas Típicas de Santana preserves several examples.  Visitors can step inside, smell the dried straw and imagine what life was like when smoke from a wood fire scented the air and the attic stored maize cobs.  Local craftsmen demonstrate weaving baskets from willow and rethatching roofs.  These houses symbolise resilience—built from local materials to suit the climate—and they serve as a reminder that sustainability isn’t new but rather deeply rooted in Madeira’s history.

Peaks, forests and waterfalls: a biosphere reserve

Standing on Santana’s cliffs you quickly realise why the municipality became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2011.  The designation protects everything from sea‑level farmland to Pico Ruivo, Madeira’s highest mountain at 1,861 metres.  Trails lead hikers from the plateau of Achada do Teixeira up to Pico Ruivo, and along ridges linking neighbouring summits like Pico do Areeiro.

Below the peaks stretches the ancient Laurissilva forest, a green cloak of laurel trees unique to Macaronesia.  Irrigation channels called levadas wind through the forest; one of the finest is the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, an 18th‑century canal that passes through rock tunnels and ends at a tall waterfall.  Water from these levadas still irrigates fields in the parish of Faial.

Off the coast lies the Rocha do Navio Nature Reserve, created in 1997.  The reserve includes cliffs, islets and terraced fields reached by a cable car.  It is part of the Natura 2000 network and the UNESCO “Man and Biosphere” programme and allows limited fishing and shellfish gathering while conserving habitats.

With its mountains, forests and cliffs, Santana offers more than scenic viewpoints.  The biosphere reserve contains over 120 km of hiking trails, inviting walkers to discover waterfalls, endemic plants and birds.  The Laurissilva forest is home to species such as the Madeiran laurel and Canary laurel, whose glossy leaves filter sunlight into green shafts.  Vines of moss hang from branches, creating an atmosphere worthy of a fantasy novel.  Birdwatchers keep an eye out for the long‑toed pigeon and the Madeira firecrest, tiny birds with colourful crests that flit through the canopy.  Throughout the year, wildflowers—bluebells, geraniums and orchids—bloom along levada paths.  These natural riches not only attract visitors but also provide water and soil stability for farmers below.

Six parishes and their distinct characters

Santana municipality comprises six parishes, each with its own character.  Taken together they reveal the mosaic of landscapes and lifestyles that make the north coast unique.  Here’s a quick tour:

Santana parish

The central parish is the administrative heart and the most populous, home to about 2,800 people.  It sits on a plateau overlooking the sea, anchored by the original chapel of Santa Ana and the modern Madeira Theme Park.  The theme park, opened in 2004, is a cross between museum and amusement park: visitors ride a simulated boat to relive the island’s discovery, explore pavilions on local crafts, sample regional cuisine and even zip‑line or bungee jump.  A replica of the steam‑powered train that once ran from Funchal to Monte adds nostalgic charm.  The park’s purpose is both educational and entertaining, appealing to families and school groups and celebrating Madeira’s cultural heritage.

Faial

Faial stretches from high peaks down to the sea and combines farmland with scenic spots.  Its coastline has small pebble beaches and a surfing swell, while inland trout streams feed the Balcões viewpoint.  The parish is home to the 18th‑century Fortim do Faial, whose cannons once guarded against pirates and whose terrace offers sweeping views.  Orchards and banana terraces thrive in Faial’s mild micro‑climate.

São Jorge

North along the coast, São Jorge combines waterfalls, vineyards and gardens.  The Igreja de São Jorge stands amid greenery, while the Levada do Rei guides walkers to a roaring waterfall beneath laurel trees.  Viticulture remains important here, with vines clinging to terraces.

São Roque do Faial

São Roque do Faial sits between peaks and ravines and marks the start of the ridge walk connecting Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo.  Farmers here raise cattle and cultivate potatoes.  The parish hosts a Trout Festival with smoked trout tastings and a Cider Route celebrating locally pressed apple cider

Arco de São Jorge

With about 364 residents, Arco de São Jorge clings to steep slopes where terraces of vines and vegetables cascade down to the sea.  A natural arch carved by erosion gives the parish its name.  A rose garden and small agricultural museum illustrate local horticulture.

Ilha

Meaning “island,” Ilha is a tiny parish of about 189 residents perched on a spur between ravines.  Its name reflects its isolation rather than any surrounding sea.  Each spring the Lemon Festival fills the streets with citrus floats and lemon‑flavoured treats.  Trails from the parish lead up to Achada do Teixeira and Pico Ruivo.

Life and work: agriculture, crafts and sustainable tourism

For centuries Santana’s economy revolved around agriculture.  Farmers grew subsistence crops—potatoes, beans, maize—and raised cattle on steep pastures.  Terraced fields carved into hillsides used walls of dry stone.  Apple orchards thrived in the cool altitude; many families still produce apple cider in autumn, pressing the fruit by hand and fermenting the juice in barrels.  Vines cling to pergolas, their grapes providing table fruit and small batches of wine.  In Faial, farmers specialise in yams and bananas, while in Arco de São Jorge they cultivate passion fruit.  The municipality also preserves crafts such as weaving baskets from willow, carving wooden stools, and making straw hats.  Women embroider colourful patterns on linen for tablecloths sold at local markets.

Santana’s cuisine is as humble as it is hearty.  In winter, households simmer sopa de trigo, a nourishing wheat and vegetable soup thickened with pumpkins and flavoured with pork rind.  Broa de milho (cornbread) is baked in wood‑fired ovens and sliced thick to accompany cozido, a stew of beef, pork and vegetables slow‑cooked in earthenware pots.  The ubiquitous bolo do caco, a round flatbread made with sweet potato, is grilled on a tile and slathered with garlic butter.  In spring, households gather wild fennel and herbs to flavour espetada skewers of beef grilled over open fires.  Many homes still raise chickens and rabbits in backyard pens; nothing goes to waste when Sunday lunch brings families together.

Craft traditions link daily life with the land.  Baskets woven from willow and banana leaves once carried crops and now appear at fairs as straw hats and embroidered cloths.  Girls learn stitches from their mothers and hand‑stitched table runners with colourful flowers often grace weddings and baptisms.  The municipality organises workshops and encourages shops to stock locally made goods so that artisans earn income and preserve ancient skills.

During the 20th century, roads improved and Santana gradually integrated into Madeira’s economy.  Tourism brought new opportunities.  Today many residents work in eco‑tourism, guiding visitors along levada trails and up mountains.  Small guesthouses and rural lodges host hikers.  The municipality invests in sustainable practices to protect the biosphere reserve: signs encourage visitors to stay on marked paths, and farmers are supported to maintain traditional terraces that prevent erosion.  The cable car at Rocha do Navio is used not just by tourists but by farmers who still cultivate crops on the inaccessible coastal terraces.  This balance between old and new keeps Santana authentic while providing livelihoods.

Monuments and museums

Santana isn’t just about natural beauty; it also boasts an assortment of historical monuments and cultural attractions.  The Fortim do Faial is one of the island’s few coastal fortresses, with cannons still pointing toward the ocean.  Elsewhere manor houses and chapels, some dating to the 16th century, illustrate how sugar wealth was invested in civil and religious architecture.  These simple sanctuaries host processions and celebrations that mark the rhythm of village life.

An unusual highlight is the Madeira Theme Park, opened in 2004 to showcase the archipelago’s culture.  Instead of roller coasters, the park offers interactive pavilions explaining Madeira’s geology, history and crafts, a replica train, gardens with endemic plants and gentle rides for children.  It blends entertainment with education and has become a popular outing for families and school groups.

Festivals that mix satire, dance and farming

No article about Santana would be complete without mentioning its lively festivals and traditions.  February’s Festa dos Compadres parades giant effigies through the streets to lampoon local characters; after a mock trial the puppets are burned as part of a pre‑Lent cleansing.  In July, 24 Horas a Bailar keeps dancers on their feet for a whole day while folklore groups play bailinho and serve honey cake and poncha.  Other parish events include the Lemon Festival in Ilha, the Trout Festival and Cider Route in São Roque do Faial and the Arraial de São Pedro in São Jorge.  Autumn’s Agricultural Fair features prize cattle and a tractor parade.  Together these celebrations show that, even with modern tourism, Santana’s heart still beats to the rhythm of its farming calendar.

An evolving community

Change has come slowly but steadily to Santana.  Population numbers have declined from over 8,800 people in 2001 to roughly 6,553 in 2021 as young residents move to Funchal or abroad in search of work.  To counteract this trend, local authorities promote sustainable tourism and small enterprises.  New guesthouses occupy restored farmhouses; artisans sell woven baskets and woollen caps to visitors; and restaurants serve dishes like espetada (skewered beef), milho frito (fried cornmeal cubes) and cozido stewed in earthen pots.  The municipality encourages organic farming and has installed free Wi‑Fi zones to lure remote workers seeking a tranquil setting.

Recently remote workers and returning emigrants have renovated barns and ancestral homes into co‑working spaces and rural lodges with high‑speed internet.  They bring new energy yet adapt to local rhythms—shopping at markets and helping with grape harvests.

Young families send children to small schools where classes combine age groups and teachers also teach folklore.  After lessons youngsters enjoy levada paths or surf nearby.  Scholarships and apprenticeships help ensure skills stay on the island.

Daily life follows nature’s tempo: farmers rise early, midday meals gather families and evenings involve card games in cafés.  Before festivals, villagers sew costumes, build floats and rehearse dances, culminating in processions filled with music and grilled meat.

Despite technology, residents cherish storytelling and music.  Grandparents recount legends while teenagers share bailinho chords on guitars; this blend of old and new gives Santana its rhythm.

Education and culture remain vital.  Schools teach children to value their heritage through folk dance classes and crafts workshops.  The local radio station broadcasts in the morning, sharing weather reports and playing folk tunes.  In the evenings older men still gather in cafes to play cards and debate football, while women meet to embroider tablecloths with patterns of vines and flowers.  The rhythm of life is slower than in Funchal; the church bells mark time, not the beep of smartphone notifications.

Santana’s story shows how isolation can nurture creativity and resilience.  Its triangular houses, verdant levada trails, and joyful festivals draw visitors not just for scenery but for a way of life.  Standing on a cliff at Rocha do Navio, watching waves crash below and clouds swirl around Pico Ruivo, one senses the deep connection between people and landscape.  Come for the peaks and thatch; stay for the laughter and lemon tarts.  This north coast enclave proves that tradition and modernity can dance together—sometimes for 24 hours straight.