Madeira’s Golden Crop: A Deep Dive into the Bananas of an Island Paradise

Introduction – the sweet symbol of Madeira

When travellers fly into Madeira, they are immediately greeted by an unusual sight: steep terraces covered in lush green leaves that cascade down the volcanic slopes like huge fans.  At the end of nearly every stalk hangs a bunch of bright yellow fruit.  Bananas are everywhere in Madeira, from the gardens of humble cottages to the steepest cliffs of Ponta do Sol.  The archipelago’s subtropical climate and fertile volcanic soil give its bananas a uniquely intense sweetness and creamy texture.  The “Banana from Madeira” is so distinctive that it has been granted Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, ensuring that only fruit grown on the island can carry the name.  This small fruit – usually shorter and plumper than standard supermarket bananas – is one of the most recognisable icons of Madeiran gastronomy.

Madeirans didn’t always grow bananas.  The first plants arrived on the island in the 16th century as curiosities brought by Portuguese navigators from tropical voyages.  Over the next few centuries the plants became an important subsistence crop.  Commercial cultivation began in the mid‑19th century when the first “Dwarf Cavendish” variety was planted.  Since then bananas have reshaped the island’s landscape and economy.  Today hundreds of terraces along the south‑facing slopes are devoted to banana plantations.  Workers still cultivate and harvest the fruit by hand, clambering up and down steep hillsides with bunches that can weigh 50–90 kg.  The banana is present in everything from the islands’ cuisine – try the famous black scabbard fish with banana – to local festivals and museum exhibits celebrating the fruit’s heritage.  This article explores the banana’s journey from botanical curiosity to economic powerhouse: its history, the varieties grown, how long it takes to grow, its yield and trade, and why the tiny fruit on this remote Atlantic island tastes so good.

A brief history: from botanical curiosity to PGI fruit

The banana did not originate in Madeira.  Portuguese traders brought the plant to the archipelago sometime around the 16th century, probably from their voyages to West Africa and Southeast Asia.  At first the plant was a botanical oddity grown in noble gardens, but the favourable climate encouraged more widespread planting.  By the 19th century the “Dwarf Cavendish” variety had arrived and became the first commercial cultivar grown on the island.  Dwarf Cavendish is prized for its relatively compact stature and short production cycle, making it suitable for the terraced plots of Madeira.  According to a local blog, today Dwarf Cavendish accounts for about 60 % of the island’s banana area, while Robusta represents about 32 % and Grand Naine and Gal varieties – introduced in 1993 – account for the remaining 8 %.  In addition to these commercial cultivars, small gardens still grow heirloom types such as the silver banana and the apple banana, although these varieties are not produced on a commercial scale.

By the early 20th century, bananas were one of Madeira’s main exports.  The industry boomed in the 1920s and 1930s when demand for tropical fruit grew in mainland Portugal and northern Europe.  During this period, exporters shipped dozens of thousands of tonnes to England and the Low Countries.  However, the island’s small, curved bananas became the subject of European legislation in the late 20th century.  In the 1990s the European Union adopted standards for the length and curvature of bananas.  Madeiran fruit, which is naturally smaller and shorter than bananas from Latin America, failed to meet these criteria.  Locals refer to this as the “Bendy Banana Law.”  As a result, exporters could no longer sell their fruit on European auctions and shipments were largely restricted to mainland Portugal.  The restrictions forced many farmers to diversify into other crops; some removed their banana groves altogether.  Nevertheless, banana cultivation remained an important part of the rural economy because the fruit still sold at a premium in Portugal due to its taste.

In recent decades the regional government and producer cooperatives have worked to protect the banana’s reputation.  The PGI designation, officially recognised by the European Union, ensures that bananas marketed under the “Banana from Madeira” label are grown, harvested and packaged according to specific guidelines.  These include restrictions on pesticide use, a requirement for manual harvesting and ripening processes, and the unique sensory qualities of the fruit.  The PGI status not only protects producers from fraudulent use of the name but also helps maintain the high price of the fruit in Portuguese markets.  Thanks to this combination of tradition and modern regulation, Madeira’s banana industry survived the “Bendy Banana” crisis and continues to thrive today.

The banana plant: herb, not tree

Although often called a banana “tree,” the plant is botanically a giant herb.  It has no woody trunk; instead, it is composed of leaf sheaths tightly wrapped together to form a pseudostem.  The banana plant reproduces vegetatively by sending up suckers from an underground rhizome.  Each pseudostem produces a single large inflorescence (banana “flower”) that emerges from the top of the stem.  The purple bud gradually unfurls to reveal rows of banana “hands,” each with 10–20 individual fruits.  Once the bunch is harvested, the pseudostem dies back and a new sucker takes its place.  On Madeira, farmers often manage two or three generations of pseudostems on each plant to ensure continuous production.

Like all bananas, the plant requires warmth, sunlight and abundant water.  Madeira’s oceanic subtropical climate – mild winters, warm summers and high humidity – provides near‑ideal conditions.  Because the island is mountainous, farmers often plant bananas on south‑facing terraces carved into the steep slopes.  These terraces, irrigated by the island’s network of levadas (small irrigation canals), allow water to flow from the wet north side of the island to the drier south.  The terraces also reduce soil erosion and maximise exposure to sunlight.  Bananas are grown up to about 300 m altitude, though the most productive belts are between sea level and 200 m.

Because banana plants are herbaceous, the pseudostem is relatively weak.  Once the heavy cluster starts developing, farmers must support the stem with wooden or metal bars to prevent it from snapping under the weight.  The average bunch weighs about 50 kg, but some bunches may reach 90 kg, especially on vigorous plants in fertile soils.  On the steep terraces of Madeira there is no machinery to help with harvesting.  Farmers cut the heavy bunch and carry it on their shoulders or lower it down using zip‑lines installed between terraces.  After cutting, the fruit is transported to a packing house where it ripens for two to three weeks.  If there is too much ripe fruit at once, farmers slice and freeze the bananas to prevent waste.

Varieties and unique characteristics

Madeira’s commercial banana production is dominated by cultivars from the Cavendish group.  The most widely planted is Dwarf Cavendish, introduced in the mid‑19th century.  It grows to about two metres tall and produces medium‑sized fruit with a smooth, bright yellow skin.  Its short stature makes it less susceptible to wind damage – an important trait on this exposed island.  Robusta, introduced later, accounts for about 32 % of the plantation area.  It is taller and produces slightly larger bunches but is more sensitive to wind.  Grand Naine and Gal cultivars were introduced to Madeira in 1993 and together cover about 8 % of the area.  These cultivars were adopted because they offer higher yields and disease tolerance; a preliminary study cited by a local blog found that the ‘Grand Naine’ had the highest productivity among several Cavendish lines in Madeira.

In addition to these commercial cultivars, small family farms and home gardens sometimes grow traditional varieties such as the silver banana and the apple banana.  These heirloom types are sweeter, with hints of vanilla or apple, but produce smaller bunches.  Because they are not uniform in size and shape, they are rarely sold in markets.  However, they are cherished by locals for desserts and home consumption.

One of the key features of Madeiran bananas – regardless of variety – is their compact size and high sugar content.  A local guide notes that bananas from Madeira are generally smaller than those imported from South and Central America, yet their natural sugar content is higher, giving them a rich, fruity sweetness.  The high sugar content results from the island’s long growing season, intense sunlight and careful ripening process.  The fruit contains vitamins A and C, fibre, potassium and small amounts of iron and calcium.  Potassium, in particular, helps regulate muscle function and blood pressure, which is why athletes and hikers often snack on bananas before and after a climb.  Each fruit contains about 90 kcal, making it an energy‑dense yet healthy snack.

Cultivation: terraces, levadas and the 12‑month cycle

Growing bananas on Madeira is labour‑intensive.  The island’s steep terrain means that fields are rarely flat.  Instead, farmers build stone‑lined terraces that create level planting areas supported by retaining walls.  These terraces can be as narrow as a few metres.  Water is supplied by levadas, slender channels that transport water from the wet mountains to the dry coastal slopes.  Irrigation is crucial; banana plants require consistent moisture but cannot tolerate waterlogged soil.

Banana plants have a long cultivation cycle.  After a sucker is planted, it takes around 12 months before the plant is ready to harvest.  Some sources give a range of 12–14 months.  During this period the plant rapidly grows leaves and eventually produces a flower.  Farmers cut off the purple bud once the hands have formed to divert energy to the developing fruit.  Unlike seasonal crops, bananas on Madeira are harvested year‑round because farmers stagger planting so that different plots are at different stages of growth.  Each pseudostem yields a single bunch and then dies.  After harvesting the main stem, a new sucker is selected to become the next productive stem.  Proper sucker management is critical: farmers typically allow one primary and one secondary sucker to develop while removing any extra shoots to prevent overcrowding.

Because the plants grow on steep slopes, mechanisation is almost impossible.  Farm workers must manually fertilise, support and harvest the plants.  When a bunch ripens, the pseudostem is notched, and the heavy cluster is lowered onto a shoulder pad and carried to the nearest path.  On some large plantations, zip‑lines or metal rails help slide the fruit down to the road.  After harvest the bunch is transported to a packing station where it ripens in ventilated rooms for two to three weeks.  Ripening is carefully controlled to ensure the bananas develop their characteristic sweetness; temperature and humidity are adjusted to mimic the conditions inside the plant.  Once ripe, the fruit is sorted into quality grades (Extra, Class I and Class II) based on size, curvature and skin quality.  In years with bumper crops, farmers may slice surplus fruit and freeze it for later use.

Yields, production volumes and trade

Madeira’s banana industry is more productive than its small scale might suggest.  Each plant produces one bunch per year, weighing roughly 50–90 kg.  With an estimated planting density of around 2,500 plants per hectare (typical for Cavendish cultivars), yields can exceed 50 t/ha.  However, because terraces are small and non‑contiguous, exact yield per hectare varies widely by farm.

At the regional level, the Directorate of Regional Statistics (DREM) publishes detailed data.  The 2023 season was exceptionally good: 25.2 thousand tonnes of bananas produced in Madeira were commercialised, a 10.8 % increase over 2022 and the highest volume since 1999.  The Extra class – comprising the highest‑quality bananas – reached 21.4 thousand tonnes, representing 84.7 % of the total.  Nearly 85.7 % of all bananas produced were shipped to mainland Portugal, leaving 14.3 % for the local market.  Production is not evenly distributed throughout the year.  In 2023, September recorded the highest volume of sales (3.3 thousand tonnes), while February saw the lowest (1.0 thousand tonnes).  Farmers attribute these fluctuations to weather patterns and variations in planting dates.

In 2024 production slipped slightly but remained high.  According to DREM, 24.5 thousand tonnes of bananas were sold, a 3.0 % decrease compared with the previous year.  The Extra class totalled 20.3 thousand tonnes, representing 83.0 % of the total.  Again, 84.4 % of bananas were shipped to mainland Portugal, with 15.6 % sold in the regional market.  September remained the month with the highest volume (3.1 thousand tonnes), whereas December recorded the lowest (1.2 thousand tonnes).

The most recent figures, for 2025, show a more pronounced decline.  20,900 tonnes of bananas were sold, 14.4 % less than in 2024.  Extra‑class bananas accounted for 16,800 tonnes (80.3 %), and 81.4 % of production was shipped to mainland Portugal.  July was the busiest month, with sales of 2,500 tonnes, while December saw the lowest volume of just under 1,000 tonnes.  These fluctuations highlight the vulnerability of banana production to weather and market conditions.  The decline in 2025 was partly attributed to unusually dry weather and strong winds, which damaged leaves and reduced yields.

These statistics underscore the scale of the industry: even at 20–25 thousand tonnes per year, bananas represent one of Madeira’s most valuable agricultural products.  An earlier report noted that more than 600 000 kg (0.6 million kg) of bananas are exported annually to mainland Portugal and Spain.  Another article recalls that production increased from 13,900 tonnes in 2009 to 22,700 tonnes in 2022, with farmer income rising from €8.6 million to €21.2 million.  These figures show how investments in processing, quality control and marketing have paid off.  The PGI label, improvements in irrigation and fertilisation, and better organisation among cooperatives have all helped farmers earn more from their fruit.

Economic importance and the PGI system

Bananas are not just a crop; they are a vital economic pillar for Madeira’s rural communities.  Thousands of smallholders grow bananas on plots often smaller than 0.5 ha.  Many of these farmers are retirees or part‑time growers who rely on banana income to supplement pensions.  Cooperatives play a central role in supporting growers: they provide seedlings, fertiliser and technical advice; organise pick‑ups of bunches; run ripening facilities; and handle marketing.  Because plantations are so small and scattered, cooperative logistics are essential to maintain quality and traceability.

The Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designation is key to safeguarding this income.  Under the PGI rules, bananas must be grown in Madeira using traditional methods on terraced land; bunches are harvested by hand when the first fingers show a hint of yellow; and ripening takes place in controlled rooms.  The PGI ensures that consumers buying “Banana from Madeira” know they are getting a product with specific organoleptic characteristics (creamy texture, intense sweetness) and a traceable origin.  Producers whose bananas do not meet the PGI size and appearance criteria can still sell them locally, but they cannot use the prestigious label.

The PGI has also helped producers negotiate better prices with wholesalers.  Since bananas from Africa and Latin America are cheaper, Madeiran growers differentiate their product by emphasising quality and sustainability.  Retailers in mainland Portugal often display the fruit separately and market it as a premium product.  Despite the higher price, consumers appreciate its flavour and support the local economy.  During the pandemic, when shipping delays disrupted imports, demand for Madeira bananas increased dramatically, highlighting the importance of self‑sufficiency.

Culinary and cultural significance

Bananas are deeply woven into Madeiran culture.  Beyond fresh consumption, they appear in a surprising array of dishes.  The most famous is espada com banana, a dish pairing deep‑fried slices of black scabbardfish with a caramelised banana.  The unusual combination works because the fish’s mild flavour complements the banana’s sweetness.  The dish has become a staple in restaurants, especially in Câmara de Lobos, where scabbardfish boats land their catch.

Bananas also star in desserts such as bolo de banana (banana cake), fritters dipped in sugar cane honey and liqueurs.  At local bars you might find banana poncha, a twist on Madeira’s traditional sugar cane spirit with added banana pulp.  In Ponta do Sol, a Banana Museum (BAM) opened to celebrate the fruit.  Visitors can learn about the history of banana cultivation, see tools and photographs, and sample banana cake and even banana beer.  The museum underscores the fruit’s importance, noting that the banana is more significant to the island’s economy than Madeira wine.

The Rota da Banana, a short trail in Madalena do Mar, leads visitors through the island’s largest plantation.  Along the path, information panels describe the growth cycle and the role of levadas in irrigation.  In July the town hosts the Mostra Regional da Banana, a festival celebrating the harvest.  Producers display perfect bunches, while cooks prepare banana‑based dishes.  Meanwhile, the colourful terraces of banana plants provide a backdrop for live music and folk dancing.

Banana leaves have long been used in folk medicine.  Before modern drugs arrived, people used banana leaves to treat digestive problems; locals also wrap fish and sweet bread in leaves before baking to impart aroma and moisture.  The high potassium content of bananas helps prevent cramps and lower blood pressure.  The fruit’s fibre aids digestion and helps control blood sugar levels.  With about 90 kcal per fruit, bananas provide an energy boost without excessive calories.  Islanders have also become creative with banana-inspired drinks; some cafés serve banana beer and cocktails combining banana puree with the traditional sugar cane rum.

Challenges and sustainability

Despite its success, Madeira’s banana industry faces challenges.  Firstly, the island’s geography limits expansion.  Most flat land is already under cultivation or urbanised, so farmers must continually rebuild terraces and maintain irrigation channels to prevent landslides.  Climate change poses another threat: more intense storms and irregular rainfall can damage plants and reduce yields.  Storms can blow down pseudostems, while prolonged droughts force farmers to rely on limited levada water.  In 2025 a combination of dry weather and strong winds contributed to a 14 % drop in banana sales.

Another issue is the European Union’s marketing standards.  Even with PGI status, only bananas of certain sizes and curvatures qualify for export to other EU countries.  Because Madeiran bananas are naturally smaller, they are often deemed “out of specification.”  Most of the crop is therefore sold domestically or in mainland Portugal.  Producers have lobbied to have these size restrictions relaxed, arguing that flavour and quality should trump cosmetic standards.  The small size is part of the fruit’s charm; some sellers even market the bananas as a unique “boutique” product.

To increase resilience, researchers and producers are exploring sustainable practices.  There is interest in organic cultivation and reduced chemical inputs to appeal to health‑conscious consumers.  Some farmers have started planting cover crops between banana rows to reduce soil erosion and improve soil fertility.  Others are trialling shade trees to mitigate wind damage.  At the same time, marketing campaigns emphasise the environmental benefits of buying local – shorter transport distances and support for small farmers.

Conclusion – a small fruit with big significance

Madeira’s bananas may be small, but they have outsized importance for this Atlantic island.  Introduced as a curiosity centuries ago, they now blanket the hillsides and shape the lives of thousands of farmers.  The island’s steep terraces, irrigated by levadas, create a patchwork of green that is as iconic as the Laurissilva forest.  Bananas take 12 to 14 months from planting to harvest and require careful manual labour, but the result is a fruit with exceptional sweetness and a unique flavour profile.  A PGI designation protects the fruit’s reputation, while cooperatives and producers ensure quality control and fair distribution of profits.

In recent years, statistics show how important this crop remains: over 25,000 tonnes were sold in 2023, with the majority shipped to mainland Portugal.  Even with declines in 2024 and 2025, bananas still occupy a central role in the island’s economy and identity.  Their future will depend on adapting to changing climate patterns, resisting external marketing standards, and continuing to celebrate the fruit through festivals, museums and everyday meals.  For visitors, biting into a fresh banana from a roadside stall provides a taste of the island’s terroir; for locals, it represents heritage, hard work and the enduring sweetness of home.

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